Julian and I woke up the next morning extremely cold. It took a while before the sun decided to rise over the hill and shine on our humble bluff so we stayed in our sleeping bags until it finally did. We packed up and then hiked back up to the village on the ridge where Adam was staying. We arrived to the village around 9:00, walked to the hostel, and waited for Adam to get up. We sat at a picnic table and had a nice breakfast of Pringles. Adam finally arose and felt much better than he had the previous day. We sat around a little while longer and then went to find a restaurant to feed us an early lunch. Since we were planning on sleeping outside that night at a random spot on the island, we wanted to make sure we had at least one real meal that day. After our 2 course meal which consisted of soup and trout, we left to hike to the northern part of the island.
The trail we took followed the ridge of the island the whole way and we had to go up and down many hills. After the long stenous day we had the day before, the hills felt like torture. We of course were rewarded by the amazing views. From every direction we could see the great expanse of the biggest lake in South America. On the trail we ran into many tourists, locals, kids who wanted to take our snacks, sheep, and the occasional pig or llama.
After 3 hours of walking, we finally arrived to the most historic site on the island. This consisted of 3 things: the rock of the puma, the sacrificial table, and ancient Incan ruins. There was a guide there that gave brief explanations of all three. The rock of the Puma is where the first Incan emperor is said to have risen from. The rock, of course, looks like a Puma. The sacrificial table is where the Incans used to sacrifice sheep, llamas, and even virgin women. The guide showed us only one thing in the Incan ruins, a healing well. The water in this well was said to be medicine that could cure any form of disase, injury, or psychological disorder.
After the guide was done giving us this short tour, Julian, who was intent on finding a sandy beach ever since we had first arrived on the island, sprinted down the hill toward what looked like a beautiful sandy beach. Adam followed, leaving me alone to explore the ruins a little bit more. The ruins were like a labrynth of stone with very tiny doors. Every time I entered a new room I had to duck down almost to my knees and was barely skinny enough to jam through.
After my ten minutes of quick exploration and picture taking, I joined Adam and Julian at the beach below. The sun was almost about to disappear behind a huge hill so Julian and I got in our swimsuits and entered the freezing water. After we had reached ¨the point of no return¨ we submerged ourselves and even swam a few strokes before getting out to dry in the sun while we had it.
As we were lying on the beach, a canoe arrived on the beach with a man and his small son. We walked over and attempted to make conversation with the boy while the father was picking up trash. Later the father joined us and we skipped stones a while with the boy and his father. The fater was the best stone skipper I have ever seen as he could make stones skip like 10 times (not over exageratting). After a bit, we let the two get back to their fishing.
We hiked back up the hill and soaked in the sun on some rocks for a while before leaving to hike up the bigger hill nearby to take in the sunset. After struggling up our last hill of the day, we watched with a few sheep as the sun sank into the water. Behind us, a pink hue could be seen behind the snow capped mountains on the other side of the lake. After sitting in peace for a while, we hiked back down the hill where we intended on sleeping in the sacred ancient ruins below.
Before criticizing us for deciding to sleep in such a spot, hear us out. There was no sign that is said is was forbidden or discouraged. Our guide book said that you could sleep anywhere on the island away from villages or cultivated land. Of course, we still had our doubts, you know it being a sacred ancient ruin and all, but that was the best spot around and had the added bonus of being sheltered by the wind. The coolness factor of sleeping in an ancient Incan ruin also played into our thinking of course.
So, we set up our sleeping bags in a room that was at the furthest corner of the ruins, hoping to remain undected in case it really was against the rules or something. We went to sleep almost right away because we wanted to get up early before the first tourists would arrive. That night, sleeping in the ruins, turned out to be the strangest night I have ever experienced. We slept in a room with high stone walls and no roof. It was a full moon that night, giving off an eerie light that lit up our small room. It was about 10:00 that night when we first heard the voices.
I awoke with my heart pumping, sinc we really did not want to be discovered. The voices got closer and finally it became obvious that there were between two to four local men in the room directly next door to ours. I heard one man talking a lot while the others listened and occasionally asked a question. I believe they were talking in Spanish but they were speaking quiet enough that I could not tell exactly what they were talking about, only being able to pick out words every now and then. They talked for at least an hour and I stayed awake, not wanting to fall asleep in fear of snoring and giving away our sleeping spot.
All of a sudden, a man started playing a flute. As he was playing, a bird flew into our room, circled around for a while, and left. I did not think much of that bird then but that bird would be very useful later. After the solemn flute music was done playing, there was more talking. Then, there was a very loud sound coming from the room next door. It sounded like the loudest snore you have ever heard. I thought one of the men had actually fallen asleep. My heart was pumping fast because that was the most unnnatural, loudest snore ever. Then my heart nearly lept out of my throat when I heard a deafening cat roar: MMMMMMMEEEEEEEEEEOOOOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWW. What the crap!? I began hearing the loud snore again followed by the deafening meow and this repeated itself at least two more times. I began feeling very uneasy and now really, really, did not want them to find us because I was afraid they were loco and we were witnessing some top secret ceremony or something. The night wore on and I heard a few more strange things. There were weird whistling and breathing sounds coming from the room. I would see light seep through our door. I stayed awake through it all, and then, as they were getting ready to leave, a man looked through our tiny door and spotted us.
He went to get the guy who must have been in charge and then a man came into our room in a full Indian custume. At this point, I had no idea what was going to happen. Adam was pretending to be asleep, Julian might have actually been asleep somehow, and I was wide awake and the Indian dude knew it. I sat up as the Indian dude started talking in Spanish about demons and spirits as I sat in a stunned silence. He said he had felt our presence during the ceremony. He then offered Julian (who was now up) and I Coco leaves which we of course accepted, wanting to stay on his good side. He then preceded to make small talk with us, which, considering the circumstances, seemed very strange. So, we told him where we were from and how old we were. We asked him if it was ok that we were sleeping there and responded by saying no, that we had to have permission from mother earth or something. I told him that we would leave if he wanted us to. Right after I said that, the bird flew into our room again, and the indian dude was astonished. He said ¨have you seen this bird.¨ We were like ¨umm…si.¨ Apparently this bird was a sign that mother earth or the spirits or something accepted us there. He ended the conversation by telling us his name and to look for him tomorrow in the next village to get to know him better. We told him yes and then he left by making strange hand gestures that looked like he was putting a spell on us or warding off evil spirits or something. Julian and I just looked at each other and laughed at the ridiculousness of what just happened.
The next day, we woke up early to leave before the tourists arrived. Adam was already up when I woke up and apparently he had not slept once during the whole night. We got our things together and noticed a weird symbol by the entrance of the door. There was a long knife and a stick pointed toward our door. I have no idea why it was there but I hypothesized that the man put it there to ward off evil spirits or something. We had crackers for breakfast as we reminisced about the crazy night.
We hiked down to the small village below around 9:30 and asked several people if they knew Roqechoque, the weird indian dude from the previous night. Nobody knew who he was. We finally gave up trying, ate at a restaurant, and chilled in the village until the next boat left at 1:30 to the northern part of the island. We took a boat there, hiked up old incan steps, and then left to go back to Copocobana. We rested in Copocobana for a day before taking a bus to Puno, Peru to see the legendary floating islands. I was dissapointed that we never found the Indian dude again because of my curiosity of what exactly happened in the ruins that night. But I guess some things are better left as a mystery.
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We left La Paz behind to see a legendary place enriched in history. A place where people dream of going but never do. A place that screams adventure. A place called Lake Titicaca. This gigantic lake on the Bolivia-Peru border is where the mighty Incan empire began and today is a place where tourism and the old ways mix and mingle to form a new ever changing identity to this sacred lake.
We arrived late at night to a town called Copocobana. There seem to be as many tourists as locals in this town. For some this town is simply a stopover before heading to Puno or Cusco in Peru, but most come to this town to see Isla Del Sol (Sun Island). According to Incan legend, the sun was born there and from a rock on this lsland, rose their first emperor. Adam, Julian, and I of course were there, like every other tourist, to explore this island.
While most tourists take a tour straight from Copocabana, we elected to hike 10 miles to a small town closer to Isla Del Sol and take a boat from there. We packed really light and carried our sleeping bags with the intent of sleeping two nights under the stars on the island. We got a late start to our hike, not leaving until 12:30. There were many locals we encountered on our walk and we made an effort to say greet every single one of them. Some seemed really thrilled to greet us while some simply looked at the ground and muttered a quick hola. There seems to be mixed feelings about gringos. Tourists bring in a lot of money to these otherwise poor towns but some also seem to resent these visitors who are changing their way of life.
I felt a great sense of adventure as we arrived to our first village after an hour of walking. There were no cars on the road we hiked on and not a sign of another gringo anywhere. It felt like we were the first gringos to come across this remote village in the middle of nowhere although in the back of mind I knew that gringos probably walk this stretch everyday. There was livestock everywhere and we saw women working out in the fields, men fishing on the lake, and for once it felt like we had found a village still untouched by the ever growing effects of tourism.
We continued on and came across a few similar villages along this same road. We talked with a few people and at one instance village workers asked us if we could spare some water. We obliged and for a few minutes we were not sure if we would get our water back. Finally a man gave back the water with hardly any left. We hiked on, over hills (which are surpringly tough at 13000 feet), and down into a valley where another village sat. We stopped and rested there for a few minutes because Adam was not feeling well. He ended up throwing up and became the last victim of the phantom infection that swept through our group.
As we were leaving this town, a man came up and introduced himself and said he had a boat and could take us to the island for 15 bolivianos each (less than $2). We were still a few miles from the town we intended on walking to but with Adam being sick, we decided to take his offer. This man, Enrique, was a stud. The boat he owned was a canoe. He rowed an hour and a half straight. On the lake, I could see many boats in the distance. Some were canoes, some were simple motor boats, and some were huge tourist ferries. It was a perfect picture of the old ways and new ways coming together.
He docked on some random rock on the southern part of the island. He pointed a direction to where the town was and rowed away. We watched as he rowed farther and farther into the distance, wondering how this man could row 3 hours straight with no breaks. We hiked up a hill and toward the direction Enrique pointed. We needed to find the town since we had packed no food, planning on finding something on the island. During our walk, we met another guy heading the same direction as us who ended up acting as our guide for the next half hour. He was walking with his pig and his children who were herding the sheep. He pointed us to where different places were, showed us which leaves were used in Mate, and led us to the village.
This village is located on the top of the ridge and from what we saw, is the biggest and most touristical town on the island. We ate at a restaurant as the sun was setting and then went to buy snacks from a little store. Little girls were in charge of the store and we had a lot of fun bargaining with them. They had trouble adding up prices and had to count out load to figure out how much we owed them. The price of our goods was 50 bolivianos. One arrived at 46 while the other claimed it was 47. Julian and I patiently waited and helped them add it up to the correct amount while Adam vomited in the background.
Adam decided there was no way he was going to sleep outside being that sick so we found him a hostel, made sure the guy in charge understood his condition, and then Julian and I started hiking down to the other side of the island to find a beach to sleep on. The sun had completely set at this point but there was a full moon that night which gave us plenty of light to see. We lost the trail at some point and ended up dodging llamas and mud holes on our way to the beach. To our dissapointment, the beach was not sandy. We walked up and over a bouldery hill to another beach but this one was littered with junk. Julian sat on the beach as I scouted for another place to sleep. We were both completely exhausted at this point after our long day of walking up and down hills. I climbed up this steep hill and on the top I found the perfect sleeping spot. This bluff was nice and flat and had a beautiful view of the lake. I went back down and Julian grudgingly agreed to climb up to check this place out. We set up our sleeping bags and laid down under the annoyingly bright full moon. As I laid there, utterly exhausted, I wondered what the next day would bring. Little did I know the most interesting night was yet to come.
BY THE WAY, THERE ARE NEW PICTURES FROM LAKE TITICACA!
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So La Paz…this city could rank among the coolest big cities I’ve seen so far on this trip. It’s got an amazing feature in that if you start on the main street and walk in any direction away from it you start going up hill. The locals have to be in great shape around here. So we got in and spent the first night on the internet and eating pizza. We found this place that seels something called “The Interminable” which is the unfinishable. This is a pizza meant to feed twelve people and is 75cm in diameter. That’s about two and a half feet. We didn’t order that night. That would come later.
The next day was spent wandering around the city and preparing for the next day. That evening we went back to the pizza place and ordered “The Interminable”: a twelve person pizza to be eaten by just four guys. Even when you know the actual dimensions you have no concept of how large this pizza was until you see it. I’ve never seen a pizza this big, and trust me: I know my pizza. Julian and Fabrice each managed to eat one slice. I got down 1 3/4. Jordan managed to wolf down two whole slices. This resulted in him not wanting to eat much of anything for the next two days. He even has no desire to go near pizza at this point in time! After the pizza experience we went to the movies and saw Mission Impossible III. Could be my favorite of the series although I’ve never actually seen the first one.
The next day held our big adventure. Fabrice, Jordan, and I were going to tackle “The world’s most dangerous road on mountain bikes. This was part of an organized tour so it’s not like we were dashing off into something blindly. Still when you look at the stats this thing could be pretty darn intimidating to some people. The road goes from La Paz to Coroico. It’s an 80km road that drops over 4000meters. On average about 100 people die on this road every year. Our guide was awesome and very good at keeping us in line so we never really had anything to worry about. But it became pretty clear why the company is called Gravity Assisted Mountain Biking. When you’re squeezing your breaks for dear life on a bumpy treacherous road gravity becomes a rather harsh mistress.
We start out on a clear sunny mountain top and after equipement checks we race down the road at speeds well in excess of fast. We stroll through a drug check point and continue on. Then the dense wet fog hits and for the rest of the trip the road turns to bumpy dirt and gravel. This is fairly common on the ride but can cause a few problems. It makes the road very muddy and causes it to fly everywhere when you’re riding over it. For those of you who don’t remember: I wear eyeglasses, the only real reason being that I like to see stuff. But in this in case they were a hinderance as dirt and water kept flying on my face thus preventing me from seeing anything. The really need to invent eyeglass windsheild wipers or something. So with no real choice I took my glasses off in order to actually see. So I did most of the world’s most dangerous road in the fog, with fuzzy vision, on a slippery road, riding about two feet away from a 400 meter or so drop that would mean certain death if I lost my head for a split second. Was a nervous? Actually no. I was having too much fun.
So finally the cloud lifts and we can see the village of Coroico, our final destination. We get to the end, celebrate our survival with a round of beers, get our souvenir T-Shirts then climb into the van and head up to the hotel for a hot shower and an all-you-can-eat buffet. Jordan, sadly still feeling the effects from his pizza gorge the night before managed a piece of chicken, some jellow, and very little else.
We went back to La Paz in the company van, going back up the dangerous road. I must say the drivers are very brave going up and down this thing. Sometimes the road is barely wide enough to fit one vehicle and there are no gaurdrails. The locals often pray before going down. The next day was spent eating and playing Euchre. For a brief stint Julian wanted to go see the ruins of Tiwanaku: Bolivia’s most important archeaological site. Jordan, Julian, and I walked about a mile up a very steep hill and crammed into this very tiny bus with NO leg room for about an hour and got to the ruins only to find the entrance fee was 80 Bolivianos. Our guide book said it’d be less than a dollar. Not willing to pay that much we got back onto a bus, the driver joking this was the last bus back to La Paz.
We are still in La Paz but hopefully will be leaving today for Copacabana and Lake Titicaca. We’ve also loaded loads of different pictures in the Bolivia album that I know you’re just dying to see. Com’on, you know you are 
Peace to all and keep in touch.
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